An enthralling story of the wildness of youth, set in the world of surfing, now a film by Simon Baker.
‘I’ve re-read this novel several times. It’s a coming of age novel with a dangerous hero character who frees the young guy in his thrall from the confines of small town life, but ultimately shows him the high price of living on the edge. All senses ping as you read – the rush of water in your ears in a wipeout, tasting the salt, your heart beating faster with adrenaline. Tim Winton is a seriously brilliant writer, and I harbour secret dreams that in another life, I might perhaps have been a big wave surfer, so this is an absolute all time favourite.’
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