Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan



‘I might have mentioned already that I’m pretty fascinated by surfing (despite being terrible at it!), but  even if you have no interest at all in surfing, this book is a fascinating journey through some major events in recent history as William Finnegan travels around the world, working, living, looking for waves. He writes with a conversational charm that makes pages skip by. I can’t recommend this book highly enough!’

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ISBN: 9781472151414 Category: Tags: , , ,


Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence ‘that recalls early James Salter’ (Geoff Dyer, Observer)

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.

New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world’s most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man’s gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

‘Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard’ Sports Illustrated

Additional information

Weight 488 g
Dimensions 217 × 139 × 37 mm
Attribute Value 1