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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

£9.99

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Description

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction a mental and physical study a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific Australia Asia Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world’s most famous and challenging waves he considers the intense relationship formed between man board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story a social history an extraordinary exploration of one man’s gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

Additional information

Weight 488 g
Dimensions 217 × 139 × 37 mm
Cover

Paperback

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